An Umbrian Love Story - Part 2

Il Fornello is definitely a place where you want time to stand still. Everything is so beautiful, and the surroundings so inviting and peaceful, yet time seems to move faster than ever. Perhaps because the days are filled with so many unforgettable impressions. And how lucky am I to share it with a friend like miss K.

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After another night of restful sleep and yet another magical breakfast, it was time to embark on one of the planned day trips together. In the bag were a towel, a swimsuit, and of course, my camera – off to Bagni San Filippo. A hidden thermal gem in Tuscany, known for its natural hot springs and striking white limestone formations created by the mineral-rich water. It is a place where you can both relax and be enchanted by nature's artwork. A tip is to bring water-resistant sandals or flip-flops, as some of the stones can be sharp.

Traveling in the low season is truly something to recommend, not only do you get the streets of the towns almost to yourself, but you also get the best moments without having to queue for even a minute. The springs were just as beautiful as they were soothing, and after some wonderful bathing, we headed to the restaurant Stina had thankfully reserved a table at for us earlier.

Here, we enjoyed homemade pasta in true nonna-style. A glass of wine for those who wished, and a sense of tranquility for all, as delightful conversations flowed like a melody among us.

Back at Il Fornello, freshly showered and content in body and soul, we enjoyed the view from our enormous terrace. A plate of antipasti and, of course, some lemon drink – when in Italy!

One thing is certain: in the heart of Umbria, in the company of Stina, you will never go hungry. That evening, we had a pizza night, naturally with homemade dough, local ingredients, and a wood-fired oven. With soothing tunes playing from the outdoor kitchen speaker, wonderful conversations continued, and a sense of togetherness grew. Small talk and laughter filled the air, bites of cheese disappeared, and glasses clinked. The feeling of life happening right here and now became tangible in the most beautiful way.

Satisfied and happy, we all headed to our rooms with cheerful goodnights – see you tomorrow!

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One of the absolute highlights for Karolina and me was Montepulciano. Umbria borders Tuscany, and Montepulciano felt like an effervescent tablet of everything you dream of when thinking about Tuscany and Umbria. Views, alleys, gelaterias, fruit & vegetable markets, shops, cafes – and on repeat. Here, we wandered up and down the streets, turned into narrow alleys, entered shops empty-handed but left with bags in hand. We felt the sun warm our faces, and the notes from the square's cellist settled like velvet within us. I think we left a little piece of our hearts there. That little town swept us away. We ate velvety pasta, sipped crisp wine, feasted on tiramisù, and felt completely at ease wearing hats in public.

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So how do you top such a wonderful adventure? With a local wine tasting, of course. Stina has gathered a treasure trove of excursion destinations and contacts that she so generously shares. Just before the sun began to set behind Umbria's hills, we rolled down the narrow gravel road leading to Podere Fontesecca Winery. Here, grape clusters hung heavy on the vines, and we were welcomed with big warm smiles. We were given a tour of the estate, heard the story behind the wine, and enjoyed a flawless wine tasting.

Even though Umbria tempts with all its corners, a big part of our journey was simply to be. Il Fornello truly invites you to that. The pool area is just as fantastic as the views and adventures. This time, we settled for dipping our feet in the pool, but when we return and the sun blazes, we will undoubtedly dive in.

Our journey was coming to an end, but before leaving, we made one last stop in Città della Pieve. This charming town, with its cobbled alleys, historic buildings, and breathtaking views over rolling hills, did not disappoint. Among its many unique features is the Vicolo Baciadonne, the world's narrowest alley, so slim that two people passing by must turn sideways to squeeze through. We paused for coffee here, indulged in gelato there, and picked up some local delicacies from a wonderful vegetable shop Stina had recommended - Quintosapore Farm Shop.

To finish our trip on the perfect note, we gathered for one last dinner at Trattoria Bruno Coppetta— a perfect finale. After a thrilling search for where we had parked the car, we ended the day full of gratitude for every adventure we had experienced.

With smiles and a touch of improvisation due to a train strike, we navigated our way back home, carrying with us the echoes of laughter, the scent of Italian cuisine, and the golden hues of sunlit landscapes. Every twist and turn of this journey had gifted us something special—new friendships, unforgettable flavors, and a slower rhythm of life that we long to return to. Umbria & Stina - you are a gem. We will see you again. Arrivederci!

Key Highlights of Our Trip:

• Arrived by train from Rome at Chiusi station

• Stayed at Il Fornello, an idyllic retreat in Umbria

• Visited Bagni San Filippo for a natural hot spring experience

• Enjoyed homemade pasta at a local trattoria

• Learned to make risotto, pasta, and pizza—all nonna-style thanks to Stina

• Explored Montepulciano, its streets, markets, and cafes

• Indulged in a local wine tasting at Podere Fontesecca

• Strolled through Città della Pieve and experienced the world’s narrowest alley, Vicolo Baciadonne

• Concluded with a memorable dinner at Trattoria Bruno Coppetta
  

A journey filled with beauty, flavors, and the simple joys of slow living in Umbria