An Umbrian Love Story – Part 1

In October of last year, my dear friend Karolina and I had the enchanting privilege of packing our bags for a week-long adventure in Umbria, Italy's "green heart". Nestled in central Italy, Umbria is renowned for its rolling hills, medieval towns, and rich cultural heritage. Unlike its more famous neighbor, Tuscany, Umbria offers a tranquil and authentic Italian experience.

Our destination was Il Fornello, a beautifully restored old terracotta factory that has been transformed into a coliving space for an international community. The concept of coliving brings together individuals from around the world to live, work, and share experiences in a communal setting. At Il Fornello, this means enjoying creative environments, beautiful landscapes, and the opportunity to connect with like-minded people.

Upon our evening arrival, we were warmly welcomed and picked up at the Chiusi station, then taken directly to a local restaurant. There, we savored delightful pasta dishes and fine wine. Navigating through dark, winding roads, we finally reached the magnificent Il Fornello.

As dawn broke, curiosity got the better of us. Since we had arrived under the cover of night, everything was yet to be discovered. After enjoying coffee in bed and witnessing a dreamlike sunrise, we stepped out of our apartment to a postcard-perfect view: iconic Italian cypress trees, olive groves, rolling hills, and charming stone houses.

After pinching ourselves to ensure it was real, we wandered through paths lined with rosemary bushes and met our host Stina at breakfast. And what a breakfast it was—homemade and lovingly prepared. Yogurt, eggs, cheeses, and bread accompanied by endless cups of hot coffee.

Following heartfelt conversations about Il Fornello's history and a tour of the estate, we were handed car keys with a cheerful "Ciao," a hug, and wishes for fun! The plan for the week included some communal dinners and some on our own. We headed to the nearby village to shop for provisions. Even the act of shopping was a delightful experience. We gathered an assortment of goodies, filling the car with both good cheer and delicious items. We also found ourselves dreaming of owning a small iconic car and speaking fluent Italian.

In the evening, more guests arrived. Gathering together to set the table, chop ingredients, and listen to the crackling grill and fireplace while engaging in lively conversations was simply wonderful. A beautiful insight we gained was how quickly a sense of community can form; the common denominator of choosing to be here was all it took to feel at home. Stina, who runs Il Fornello, is a world-class host. Everything is so well-prepared, and discussions on all topics are welcomed with open arms.

After a restful night's sleep, me and Karolina drove to a nearby ancient village, Paciano. Perched on the slopes of Mount Petrarvella, Paciano is a small medieval village nestled among olive groves, offering views towards Lake Trasimeno, the Valdichiana, and Mount Amiata. The rain was looming, and we found ourselves completely alone. Had it not been for the freshly delivered mail in the letterboxes, we might have wondered if anyone lived there. We enjoyed the narrow alleys, postcard views, and the profound silence.

We then headed to Città della Pieve, the nearest larger town, but a downpour forced us to seek refuge in a café. But what did it matter? Coffee and sweets accompanied by the sound of raindrops and the Italian spectacle unfolding before our eyes.

Back home, filled with impressions, we gathered for an evening dedicated to pasta. Stina showed us how to make pasta dough like all the Italian nonnas. Even if we didn't quite reach their level of magic, we felt like pros for an evening, and the dinner we created together in the stone house's ground floor will be a memory forever.

Stay tuned for Part 2 of our Umbrian adventure...